stories of travel, medical missions, and more

Tag: Mexico

One Mexico

Hermosillo, Sonora, Mexico 2002

Travel Journal, 48

Over the past 20 years, I have spent quite a bit of time in Mexico. Anymore, I hear about it when friends go to Puerto Vallarta or Cabo San Lucas. But Mexico is so much more than beaches and all you can eat shrimp ceviche.

I first ventured south of the border in the summer of 2002. A group of us piled into a 15-passenger van and drove the bajillion miles from Wyoming (my home state) to Nogales on the Arizona border. Our destination was Hermosillo in the Sonora desert. We spent a week helping out a mission by painting walls, doing sketchy plumbing, and handing out Bibles and other spiritual materials. I can still taste the cabeza tacos and apple soda (I think it’s called Mundet, if you can find it). Each person I met bubbled with kindness. And it was a safe place to visit.

For the most part, Mexico loves America. Other than the US itself, Mexico is the biggest consumer of American goods in the world. And no matter your political leanings, Mexicans make up an enormous populous of the US workforce.

But the black eye that we don’t want to talk about it the drug situation, on both sides of the border. Not that long ago, Mexican cartels consisted of many smaller, unorganized groups of drug traffickers. Harmless, they were not. But for American tourists, crossing the border and enjoying the Mexican culture was very safe. Over the years, cartels “consolidated” into just a couple of factions. Drug violence, trafficking, and a renewed drug demand fueled by the US Opioid Crisis, all contributed to a volatile geopolitical temperature in parts of Mexico.

This bleak second Mexico is hard to figure out.

In the middle of November, 2018, my wife and I landed in a little plane in a small village in the northernmost part of the Sierra Madre Mountains. I hadn’t been to this part of Sonora since 2002. We drove our truck up a curved dirt road. At the top of the curve sat a sparkling, huge (brand new) SUV. Standing coolly at its side was a sharply dressed young man with designer jeans, sunglasses, a polo shirt, and an AK47. He chatted nonchalantly into his radio as our truck meandered the along the narrow ridge. It took us two hours by Cessna 182 to get to this place. And this guy is driving a behemoth SUV, in designer jeans, mind you. But we passed without problem. The local charity we served benefits the community greatly. So, the cartels left us alone.

Our visit went off without a hitch. But not without contrasting stories and experiences:

The local cartel leaders force the young men into work by saying they’ll kill their family if they don’t.

We walked on trails with the locals and shared time with wonderful people.

We heard stories of people being kidnapped; gone forever.

The charity work down there is thriving. And so much good has been accomplished.

And to top it off, I had the best tortillas in my life in that village. They were freshly made of local, blue corn.

See what I mean? So many contrasts. Mexico sits in political darkness. But you’re not reading this to better grasp my political views. And there isn’t two Mexicos. There is one Mexico. Mexico isn’t just cartels and violence. It’s also Cabo and kindness, ceviche and sangria, friends and warm, warm family. And it is wonderful, wild, free, friendly, frightening, unbalanced, and oh-so-much-more than I can handle.

So, if you’re wondering, “should I go to Mexico?”

I say, with all my heart, “yes.”

 

anthony forrest

Travel Journal, 14

Altitude Sickness

Our tiny plane hummed and groaned and shook and rattled as we coursed through the Mexican sky, into the Sierra Madre Mountains. Below, I peer into the Copper Canyon, home of the famed “running tribe,” the Tarahumara. Our destination lay not far ahead. In fact, the people we were visiting are missionaries to the Tarahumara people. Canyon after peak after sheer-falling cliff passed by in that slow-but-really-actually-fast way that things seem to pass beneath you when you are flying. We typically fly commercially. But not here. Commercial flights don’t go where we were going. It takes 12 hours by 4×4 vehicle on laughable roads to get to this part of Mexico.

“Is that the strip?” I ask, in a semi-confused tone. The questionably short, dirt landing strip was perched on a plateau at nearly 9,000 feet above sea level. What made it slightly terrifying was that it was on a hill. An actual hill. When the plane lands, it lands up hill. When the plane takes off, it takes off down the hill. With expert skill, our pilot adjusted flaps, airspeed, and altitude and gently lighted us back to earth.

Stumbling out of the plane, we took a deep breath. This whole trip had been nonstop hustle. From Minneapolis to Salt Lake to El Paso we flew. Then we drove the five hours from the boarder to Chihuahua City. We ate late night dinners in friendly homes. Rose early to go here and see that. Greet this person and go to that meeting. Spend unexpected two hours on phone. And then jump on 4-seat Cessna 206 to fly two more hours. It was absolutely worth it. But it was also terrifically exhausting.

And yet, here we stood—taking in this view, this mountain air. This excursion to the mountains was exactly what we needed.

We went on a hike before supper. What could be better? But as we trotted along the edge of the plateau, we were getting more and more tired. Perhaps the long week was catching up with us. Our hike was getting brutal, despite the easy trail. We were sucking wind hard by the time we got back to the house.

We both felt terrible. Dizziness, slight headaches, and on top of it, we were both very pale.

Technology is great. So is medical knowledge. I have an app on my phone that will measure oxygen saturation (spO2) in the blood. And as a paramedic, I kind of already knew what was going on. And the 90% spO2 reading on my phone confirmed.

Altitude sickness.

In Minnesota, we live at 1,100 feet. And this day we had flown directly to 9,000 feet and went for a hike. Fortunately, our symptoms were not life threatening. But that night we laid there in bed, literally struggling to breath. That being said, our trip to the mountains was indeed wonderful.

One could say that it took our breath away.

 

anthony forrest

Travel Journal, 13

Chile Pequin

The Sierra Madre Mountains are stunning: pines, cliffs, rolling hills, and alp-like mountains as far as the eye can see. After our plane landed, we stood there amazed. Our hosts greeted us happily and showed us around their mountain home. After we got settled, we toured the local area. The mission hospital, the local church, many warm-hearted people, then we made a quick stop for some fresh blue corn tortillas.

Later that afternoon, we tucked into some of the local fare (including those fabulous tortillas). Also included in the meal was a bowl full of tiny peppers.

“Would you like some Chile Pequin?” our gracious hosts ask.

Are Mexican mountain tortillas blue? Of course I want Chile Pequin.

“Sure!” I bluffed.

Actually, I had no idea what they were. But they were about the size of a pea and dry. The host handed me a little wooded pestle and I went to work on the pepper. After a few flicks of the wrist, I dumped the contents onto my beans and rice.

Wide eyes flicked back and forth. Everybody waited in silence as I took my first bite.

Lava-firebrand-acid-rain fell onto my tongue. Great sweat drops beaded up and rolled down my jaw. It took a couple of tortillas, but the Chile apocalypse subsided. Eventually, those tiny peppers became my friends. And pretty soon I was grinding more.

All was going well, until after supper I reached up and touched my right eye.

Out of nowhere, a demon guided freight train ran over my face. My eyelid slammed shut. I was soon going to have my answer on how I would look with an eye patch.

Without hesitation, our host stood up and produced a tiny plastic cup.

“Here,” she said, “pour this goat milk into you eye.” It was so rapid and I was in so much pain that I didn’t even ask her, “how did you get that milk so fast?” Or, “is this a goat-milk eyewash approved cup?” Or, “where is your goat?”

I poured the goat milk into my eye and the pain was instantly washed away.

Chile Pequin is good.

Goat milk is better.

 

anthony forrest

 

Travel Journal, 3

Too Many Señoritas

My dad and I gathered our unorganized gear and stumbled out of the Jeep. Both of us had dealt with juggling schedules and flights just to make it this far. He flew in on the red-eye connecting through Guadalajara. And though my flight was direct from Minneapolis to Cancun, my brutal night shift had left me depleted and groggy.

Cozumel, Mexico is beautiful. Sure, the island is nice. But I’m talking about what’s beneath the surface of its perfect waters. We were now headed to Palencar Reef off the southwestern coast of the island. The scuba diving in Cozumel is some of the best in the world. Still waters, abundant sea-life, and a massive coral reef create a diver’s paradise.

Sea-Selfie

Our boat (The Chingilada. No idea what that means, don’t ask) showed up and our captain and dive master began loading tanks and gear. The sun shone bright, the water was warm, and the boat crew had fresh-cut pineapple. Even though we were tired, this was going to be a perfect day.

Right before our boat left the marina, a taxi pulled right up to the pier. Two very beleaguered middle-aged Americans piled out of the vehicle.

“Sorry we’re late,” growled one of the men, orange-haired and sunburned. “Crazy night.”

They hurled their gear into the boat and fell exhausted onto the bench across from me and my dad. As terrible as we felt from our long days of travel, we were a picture of health compared to these guys. I leaned forward and said over the sound of the boat engine, “you oaky?”

A pause.

The other guy took off his sunglasses and groaned with bloodshot eyes, “Too many señoritas.” They were obviously having a completely different Mexico experience than we were.

anthony forrest

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