stories of travel, medical missions, and more

Month: February 2022

Turkish Coffee and Restaurant Closures

Turkish coffee, shawarma, avocado hummus, and pita

Travel Journal, 115

The first time I had Turkish Coffee, I sat in a small square in the Muslim quarter of Jerusalem. We had spent a great first day in Jerusalem and found a tiny spot to stop for a quick coffee. After 12 hours of flying and 2 hours on a bus, followed by a night of questionable sleep, we lunged headfirst into seeing it all. And the Old City blew us away. But this story isn’t about the Western Wall, or history, or the forever conflict between Israel and the Palestinian Authority. It’s about coffee. (It’s also about the COVID-19 restaurant restrictions between 2020 and 2021.) This was several years ago. I was much younger, and my love for coffee has only grown since then.

Turkish Coffee is not a type of coffee, but a coffee preparation that originated in ancient Turkey, namely the Ottoman Empire. Since then, it spread to all over Eastern Europe and the Middle East. Turkish coffee consists of a finely ground coffee and various spices, such as cardamom. It is also served with sugar. The coffee is typically served with only a few ounces of boiling water. The server will scoop the grounds, spice, and sugar into a small copper pot with a small handle and heat it to boiling several times. After it has met with his satisfaction, the coffee slurry is poured into cup. The drinker then waits for the grounds to settle to the bottom of the cup, hence most Turkish coffees are served in glass. After the coffee has had time to steep and settle, the drinker tucks into probably the most powerful cup of coffee they have ever tasted.

I hadn’t found a place in Minnesota that served Turkish Coffee until I made a stop at a small Egyptian café on University Ave in Minneapolis. I stood at the counter, shocked that I had finally found a hookup for the good stuff. Over the next few years, I frequented the café many times. The owner, Adel, and I talked quite a bit each time I patroned his shop. (Not the same Adel heard on the top 40 list.)

He lived above the restaurant with his family. He would regale me with stories of visiting his mother in Cairo and guide me through the menu of great food items he served, and tell me what it was like to emigrate to the US. One time he was held up in his café. The man had a gun and forced Adel to make him a sandwich before he stole all of his money. “No onions! No onions!” the man screamed, holding a gun barrel held to Adel’s head. But he pressed on, and grew a successful business. Ah, the American dream.

Two years ago, things changed. The COVID-19 pandemic swept the world. Fifteen days of closures and restrictions turned into something more like 15 months. Wide varieties of industry suffered. Grocery stores fared well. Amazon did just dandy. Food delivery, online video meeting services, Netflix, internet services, and politicians all made more money than they know how to spend. All of the companies designated as, “frontline” or “essential”, thrived during a time of vast economic drought.

And one of the largest industries to suffer was the restaurant industry. Sure, some places could stay open and offer takeout. But many couldn’t. A recent Time article reported that the industry lost $240 billion in 2020 and 80,000 restaurants have shut their doors. But don’t think that your favorite burger chain was the place to suffer. Reuters reported that over 80% of all restaurant traffic during 2020-2021, took place at fast food chain restaurants. It’s the locally owned and operated cafés and restaurants that suffered and closed their doors.

I got a text from a friend yesterday. It was a screenshot of the Egyptian café we used to visit. Its doors have closed permanently. And such is life now. The pandemic revealed what we as American culture value. If you want a McCafe or a Chalupa, you’re in luck. Those places are thriving and building new franchises. But you’ll be hard pressed to find a small Egyptian café, serving excellent falafel and Turkish coffee. You’ll be hard pressed to talk to a smiling immigrant pouring you another cup of cardamom-flavored coffee as he tells you about his family in Cairo. The personal touch of the local café may be dying. But we can do our part.

Eat local. Don’t drive though. Sit down. Try the new stuff. Smile at the wait staff. Be patient if you have to wait a while. Leave a nice tip. Listen to the stories of strangers. If you don’t, you might miss out. The world does not need more fast-casual dining. The world needs real people, serving real food, and real coffee.

anthony forrest

Fading

Teary-eyed, we drive into the sun

Ending day rays

Begun

Simply to end in a grey-dark brooding night

Sunlight gone now

As quick as it started

 

Teary-eyed, we watched as the sun set

Sat down below

The road

In front of us

Bright day behind and our tire tracks

Leading West

Trying our best

To chase the final vestige

Of a light always fading

 

Clear-eyed, we drive into the night

This nighttime-reflection

Introspection

We can only assume this darkness

This darkness

A gift

 

anthony forrest

The Loneliness of Travel

Travel Journal, 114

I have been lonely occasionally in my life. Though for the past decade and a half, the perfect companionship of my wife has easily pushed away those feelings.

But 17 years ago, I spent the better part of a year in the mountains of Bolivia. That time formed and shaped my life into what it is now, or at least greatly contributed to it. I lived with a few missionaries and other English-speakers for several months. And soon, some of them left to go back to the States for a while. I was left on my own, helping to look after a dairy farm owned and run by an American missionary.

My days were filled with occasional things farming. I milked a few cows, planted a bit of corn (by hand, dropped into a planting tube on the back of an ancient tractor), helped to maintain the water tower, and fought for my life against the evil of South American spiders.

Other Americans lived in the nearby town of Vallegrande. I saw them several times a week. But not always. The traveled around the area doing their own thing. And every couple of weeks, I walked into town and caught a bus (microbus-pronounced meecrowboos). After a relatively uncomfortable ride for three hours, the bus finally pulled into the Andes Mountain village of Pucará. American friends of mine lived there, teaching the Bible and raising four crazy boys (He now pastors a church in Montana where his family also has one of the largest goat farms in the State—it is as cool as it sounds). I relished the time I could get to their home and rile up their kids and eat their food.

But I wasn’t always able to go. Weeks would go by during which I would speak no English (my Spanish is terrible) nor see other expats. I was a stranger in a strange land. I remember waking on a Thanksgiving morning with plans to take the broken down 1975 Honda Super Cub into Vallegrande and have Thanksgiving dinner with an American family. It took me a minute to register the sound of heavy rainfall on the tin roof. I peaked outside and saw a raging downpour. No trip to town today.

I dressed and ran from my room, through the courtyard of the hacienda-style home, to the kitchen. My Thanksgiving would consist of oatmeal and coffee mixed with sweetened condensed milk. I felt a vague nagging at my heart. I was much too young to know what it was that I felt. Youth misses so much. Or maybe time gives us eyes to see. Either way, I know now what deep loneliness feels like. It’s an uncomfortable restlessness of uncertainty. It’s a nagging sorrow which can’t really be understood when you’re going through it. I spent my day sitting in the kitchen, listening to John Denver’s Fly Away, playing my guitar, and reading. Today, that sounds like a glorious afternoon. But then it felt like milquetoast. Loneliness, longing for the company of someone who understands your context and being, turns the good things into white gummy paste.

And I was only in Bolivia for the better part of a year. These feelings of loneliness and separation come to a head when an expat comes back to the States. It took me quite some time to feel like I was an American again.

I have expat friends who’ve experienced this far more than I. They feel a “cultural homelessness.” The idea is that as an American goes to another country to live or work, they begin changing to adapt to that new culture. But they are American and will never truly lose that. So they remain an outsider, no matter how much they change. And what if they go back to the States? They’ve become an outside there as well. They’ve lost a little (or a lot) of their own culture and adhered to another.

If the American is blue and the new country is yellow, after a while, the American turns green. He’s no longer blue and he’s no longer yellow. He’s a little bit of both, mixed together. He’s culturally homeless.

“Wow,” you say, “this is terrible. Why would you tell me this? People should just stay home then! Why would I want to go anywhere or see anything if I’m just going to be changed into a lonely green blob?!”

Because green isn’t all that bad.

The world needs more green people. Green can converse and understand the cultures of blues and yellows. These third culture people tie into the cultures of others. They inevitably speak two or more languages. This type of mixed identity fills the seat of the UN, sends ambassadors to foster peace deals, teaches the Bible in other languages, ends racism in the US, forms agreements for the safety and security of mankind, and loves their neighbor as themselves.

But as the great philosopher, Kermit the Frog once proclaimed, “it’s not easy being green.” The loneliness of travel can often be unbearable. Understanding simple things about a culture is exhausting. Just eating strange food strikes fear into many Americans. Try driving on the wrong side of the road; then come back to the States and get behind the wheel—lookout world. Talk to people; try not to offend them; be the butt of jokes when you make a language mistake. It’s lonely.

Kermit also said that, “green is the color of Spring, and it can be cool and friendly-like.” The rewards of travel greatly outweigh the woes. I have a friend who is moving back to Southeast Asia in a couple of weeks. To him and all the other brave souls out there building a better world, I say, “cheers!”

“You look beautiful. Green is definitely your color.”

anthony forrest 

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